Why We Don't Add Fragrance: What Fragrance Allergy Is and How to Read a Label

It is one of the first things we decided about our products: no added fragrance. Here is the reasoning, what the research says about fragrance allergy, and why "fragrance-free" on a label is less simple than it sounds.

What "Fragrance" on a Label Actually Stands For

"Fragrance" or "parfum" is not one ingredient. It is a blend, and a perfume can be composed from a large pool: about 2,500 different fragrance ingredients are in use, and at least 100 of them are known contact allergens^[1]. In the European Union, 26 individual fragrance substances have to be named in the ingredient list^[2], but the blend itself usually appears as one word.

How Common Is Fragrance Allergy?

Less common than sensitive skin, but not rare. In a study across five European countries, 3,119 randomly chosen people from the general population were patch tested. The conservatively estimated prevalence of fragrance contact allergy was 1.9%, and it was about twice as common in women as in men^[3]. Earlier reviews put it at around 1%^[4] and 1.7 to 4.1% for the "fragrance mix" test^[1]. Among people already being tested at a London clinic for eczema, 17.2% reacted to at least one fragrance marker or labelled fragrance substance^[2]. That is a patient group, not the general population, so it is not a rate you should apply to yourself.

Why It Matters More in a Leave-On Facial Product

Skin care products are major contributors to cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis, and fragrances and preservatives are the most common allergens^[5]. A face serum or moisturizer stays on the skin for hours, is applied daily, and goes onto the thinnest and most reactive skin you have. Fragrance allergy is described as occurring mainly in women with facial or hand eczema^[1], and facial dermatitis, including the eyelids, is a typical presentation^[4]. The risk for any one person is small. The fix, though, is free: leave the fragrance out.

"Fragrance-Free" Is Not a Guarantee

Products labelled "fragrance free" have been shown to contain fragrance ingredients, whether as preservatives, masking perfumes or botanicals^[1]. In patch-test data, the most common positives among labelled substances were oxidized linalool (7.4% of the eczema patients) and oxidized limonene (4.3%), both individual fragrance substances that must be labelled in the EU^[2]. That is why "natural" or "unscented" does not tell you much. The ingredient list does.

How to Check Any Product

• Read the ingredient list, not the front of the pack. Look for "parfum", "fragrance", "aroma" and named scent compounds such as limonene or linalool. Our guide to reading an INCI list shows how.
• Count botanicals and essential oils as potential fragrance sources.
• Patch test new products on a small area before using them on your face.
• If you have reacted before, ask a dermatologist for patch testing. A history alone missed three out of four fragrance allergies in one clinic series^[2].
• If your skin is reactive, see our guide to sensitive skin.