Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
INCI: Niacinamide · Vitamin B3 derivative
Mechanism of Action
Niacinamide is a precursor to the coenzymes NAD+ and NADP+, central to cellular energy metabolism in skin cells. This drives three distinct, measurable effects: downregulation of sebaceous gland activity, inhibition of melanosome (pigment granule) transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, and upregulation of ceramide and free fatty acid synthesis in the epidermis.¹²
Clinical Evidence
Separately, in-vitro coculture models measured 35–68% inhibition of melanosome transfer at niacinamide concentrations comparable to ours, with a clinical cohort (n=18) using 5% niacinamide over 4 weeks showing significantly reduced hyperpigmentation versus vehicle control.² A head-to-head trial additionally found 5% topical niacinamide gel achieved acne outcomes comparable to 2% clindamycin (a prescription antibiotic), with less associated dryness.₃
| Property | Detail |
|---|---|
| Oil Regulation | Downregulates sebaceous gland activity; measurable within 4 weeks.¹ |
| Pigment Correction | Blocks melanosome transfer rather than melanin synthesis — fades marks without bleaching baseline tone.² |
| Barrier Repair | Increases ceramide & free fatty acid synthesis in the epidermis.² |
Formulation Rationale
The clinically effective range for topical niacinamide is 4–10%, with diminishing returns and increased flushing risk above ~12%. We formulate at 10% in the Face Serum — the top of the evidence-backed range — and a supporting 1% in the Sunscreen, sufficient for tone/barrier maintenance without interfering with the sunscreen's primary UV-filtering function.
Usage Protocol
2–3 drops on clean, dry skin, AM and PM, before moisturizer. Oil control is typically noticeable within 2–3 weeks; pigment fading requires 8–12 weeks of consistent use.
Safety Profile
Well tolerated across skin types. Concentrations above 10–12% may cause transient flushing in reactive or rosacea-prone skin. Patch test recommended for first-time users. Compatible with Vitamin C and most other actives.
Where You'll Find It
Niacinamide 10% Face Serum (₹649) · Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 (₹799)
Frequently Asked
Does niacinamide lighten overall skin tone, or just dark spots?
Only dark/uneven areas — it does not affect baseline skin tone.²
Can it be combined with Vitamin C?
Yes. Historical concerns about incompatibility have not held up at modern formulation concentrations.